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There are a WIDE field of Chemicals. What do they do?

Clarifiers: There is an array of organics that are seeking to live and multiply in your spa along with general water issues. Clarifiers typically can help to maintain water that is good. Its an added method to just keep things clean and smelling right. Many do without adding but often clarifiers can be the added help to keep your water quality maintained. They usually are added regularly. Often the are basically a combination including a shock compound that allows for killing all organics in the spa.

Defoamer: Over time the water "surface tension" changes. What that means is your hot tub can start foaming, especially when the jets are on. If you think of all the oil that comes off people in the hot tub AND their trunks it isn't surprising that your hot tub starts foaming. Luckily in usually happens just as you need to change the water and changing solves. But defoamers are a great quick fix. A little in the water instantly takes the bubbles away and you can change the water later.

Enzymes: This product is used in applications where there seems to be a lot of scum or like. Enzymes liked pictured on TV eat "organics" that can make sticky lines on the spa's water level. Spas with a lot of traffic can easily have this issue. Some spas never do.

Mineral Purifier: Several companies have come up with mineral purifiers. Mainly silver or copper is used to have a mild sanitizing affect. Owners like both because of lack of smell. But either method requires some time of support since it is "mild" and organics can simply get out of control.

PH Control: Typically you will either add UP or DOWN but not both. Most tap water sources work at maintaining a PH value in normal range. But over time that can change. As long as your PH value is within "Normal" there should not be a need to address it. One important point: a little goes a long way. Follow instruction and give a good 1/2 or full day between treatment and testing. Otherwise you can spend time and money raising and lowering the water's PH. Again, a little goes a long way.

TA Control; Its expected that out of tap water will have a low end TA but within "normal". Sometimes it will be below normal TA. In that case, following bottle instructions, add a minimal amount of TA Up to bring within normal range. You want to be on the very bottom of normal. As the water ages the TA will rise. When it gets to top of normal range is usually 3-4 months and time to dump the water and start over.

Sanitizers; The most common sanitizers are Chlorine and Bromine. Chorine tends to be a bit more effective and less in cost. But smell. Bromine is a bit less effective and cost more but better smelling. So if cost is critical, then chlorine. If smell, bromine.

We recommend you use a dispenser for which you use. Broadcasting granules tend to instantly peak the sanitizer's values and then they drop quickly. That's good for a "shock" treatment but not so for continuous action.

Stain and Scale: This is a big problem in pools but less so in pools although it can be. Stain is a result of solids in the water. So over time the solids buildup in places. Stain removers can help lower or remove this problem. This isn't a common problem in most spas. Scale is commonly applied to calcium/magnesium buildup. If your water is hard or semi-hard you have to address this. Think of it like this. Your hard water has a XX valve. As it evaporates and you add more water, the H2O is evaporating but the calcium/magnesium is not. Its becoming more concentrated. So your water is getting HARDER. You want some hardness... just not HARD. (See Hard Water Help). So Stain/Scale additives can be helpful to keep the hardness out of the water and onto the filter(s). If you find a white line around your spa or water film on your shell or hose or plastic parts, that is hardness. The need and amount is related to your water source. Surface water normally is soft; well water hard.