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Spa Primer 105-Error Codes

Error codes basically make diagnosing issues much easier. Not always because the board could be the issue and its pointing you here and then there. As a rule of thumb, if you are getting a number of error codes over time or even at one time, our experience is the board is the issue and its just faulting error codes. Also, don't confuse a condition report on the topside as an error. Example: this happens often. "I just changed my spas water and its getting a COLD error code. What do I do?" Nothing. Its telling you the water is COLD and it will do things its designed to do to avoid the water freezing. In most cases it will turn the JETS on several times an hour. Its a protection mode not a failure. This would only be true if you had done nothing to the spa and water is cold and not heating. Then the spa is telling you it needs HELP and you need to fix it.

So lets cover the more common Error codes, their meaning, and their fix. Your model might have extra codes but these are the most common Error Codes:

FL(solid), FLO(solid), PS2, or FL2. What it means is the spa wants to turn the circulation or heating jet pump but the flow or pressure switch is stuck. This is a serious error because the spa will not turn the heater or pump on.
Solution: Its usually the easiest to fix; replace the flow or pressure switch. Sometimes its the board itself but usually its the switch.

FL(flashing), FLO(flashing), PS1, or FL1. This means the board has turned on the circulation pump or low speed jet pump to filter or heat the water. It doesn't see the water moving so its not turning on the heater.
Solution: First step is turn off main power, remove the filter(s), and turn main power back on. If error goes away, it was likely the filter. If still there, do you SEE water moving? If YES, replace the pressure or flow switch. If NO, replace the circulation pump or #1 jet pump.
Tech Check: Techs will FIRST check voltage from the board to the pump to confirm there IS power to the pump. If correct power that confirms needing new pump. IF -0- voltage, that shows the board itself is likely the failure. This can often happen so a Tech will check. You should too.

SN, SN1, SN 2, SN3, Hts, HT, or Oht. All of these are either sensor failure (board found sensor out of range) or board issue. Usually id'ing the failed sense (easy on some models because the error tells you which, not easy of some). ALSO make sure the sensor where it plugs into the board is secure. Loose sensors can also give this error.

OH or OHt. This means the board sees the water is HOT. Hot typically is above 110-112 degrees. On most spas the OH or OHt is taken from the heater sensor. On late model Jacuzzi spas the temp sensor can also trigger the OH error.

So, if you water IS hot, then the sensor is doing its job. During the winter the spa should never go above 104-106. If you get the OH and the water is fine, then likely its the OH sensor or on late Jacuzzi models the temp sensor.

During the summer solar heat can cause the hot tub to get HOT. Several methods to overcome is to change the filter cycle so its not filtering during the heat of the day or changing the length of the filter cycle. Some homeowners prop the hot tub cover open to allow heat to escape because of the hot summer months.

If the water IS hot during the winter and the topside temp readout is about correct, then likely the issue is the board. The board should never allow the water to heat above 104/106 in the winter. You will likely need a new board.

If the topside is giving a faulty temp that is below actual water temp, then likely the temp sensor is the issue. The board thinks it is the lower temp and heating. The OH sensor trips because the board is wrongly heating. Replace temp sensor. Can be the board but likely the sensor.

Lastly, if you get an OH error and the heater or spa's water is not above 110-112 degrees, the OH sensor would be the likely cause. This is not uncommon to happen. Replace OH sensor.

Next, no codes but "its not doing XXX". See Primer on Not Doing XXX